Craftsmanship

View the range of Charles Pinckney fabrics

There are no compromises when you set out to handcraft a piece of art...

Matching stripes

All our machines are single needle lockstitch. We do not use any chain stitch or double needle machines for any operations. Even the front placket is made using single needle lockstitch machine to give the whole shirt extra fine and strong seams. To ensure the balance of the front, one row of stitches goes down from top to bottom and the other is done bottom to top.

Matching stripes

Creating the split yoke

The sewing of the yoke is a very delicate phase not only because it is the moment of the structural union of the main parts of the shirts but also because it has to give to the shirt a perfect fit - that's why we take so much care over this area.

The origins of the split yoke lie in traditional shirt making as people generally have shoulders of different heights, a split yoke can be used to adjust the fit of a shirt precisely to the customer's stature.

Split Yoke

Removable collar stiffeners

A good shirt has removable collar stiffeners where required by the shape of the collar to keep the collar in good shape throughout the day.

Collar Stiffeners

Perfect stitch alignment between panels

The perfect combination of sartorial patience and scrupulous attention to detail results in extreme alignment. Starting from the yoke to the shoulder, from the chest to the arms, all stripes are perfectly matched.

Stitch Alignment

Gussets on the side seam

We stitch a gusset on our shirts to ensure that the sides are secured well and are never liable to tear open under any normal wear & tear.

We also add a little pentagon for reinforcement in the corner between the breast and the back.

Hand turned and hand finished collars and cuffs

Our collars and cuffs are turned by hand to ensure a perfect tip and side edging.

On good shirts the cloth of the sleeves is pleated several times where it meets the cuff. In addition there is often a small button above the cuff that prevents the sleeve opening up to reveal the arm in an unflattering way. This is optional though and can easily be left out if requested.

Collars and Cuffs

Hand turned and hand finished side seams and hem

The side seams are made using the traditional single needle method (sometimes referred to as French seams), where three rows of stitching are done one at a time and the side seam is hand rolled and hand finished.

Stitches per inch

Our standard stitch length is 22 SPI (stitches per inch). This ensures a very strong and fine stitch, which almost merges with the fabric to give you an invisible appearance.

Pre-press operations

Our shirts go through a pre-press operation before every section is completed (just like in a handmade suit). This is to ensure that the shirt sits perfectly and that there is no stress in any of the panels stitched together. There are almost 30 pre-cut pieces of fabric, which have to be stitched together to make a shirt so if you do not go through the pre-press operations you are looking at a shirt which has a mind of its own!

Overview of the accessories and trims

We maintain the quality of our shirt by using the finest accessories and needlework and the best people in the business.

The buttons

The buttons are a very important (and sometimes overlooked) detail of a good shirt. For us, the buttons are so important that like the rest of the shirt we have chosen materials that occur naturally rather than using a man-made plastic or resin. Our buttons are carved out of Oyster shell and polished to give the lustre and shine that only a genuine Mother of Pearl can. All the button-holes are handmade.

Not only pleasing to the eye, with a rich pearly sheen, mother of pearl buttons are also more durable.

Buttons

The thread and needlework

The needle performs the marriage of the thread with the fabric. We went to great lengths to get the best needle for the operation.

The linings

The linings used in our shirts are perfectly matched to the fabrics to ensure that the shrinkage of both the fabric and the linings are synchronized to ensure perfect collars and cuffs even after years of usage. It also reduces any 'rucking' when ironing the collars and cuffs which usually occurs when the lining and fabric shrink out of sync.